The Hooker Valley Track and Sealy Tarns are among the most popular hikes in New Zealand. So they seemed like a fitting first hiking day in New Zealand. After some sightseeing and stargazing around Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki, and once the weather cleared up, I made the hour-long drive along the magnificent lake into Mount Cook/Aoraki National Park.
Be warned that because of its popularity, the parking fills up quickly. While there’s a DOC campground here as well, spots are limited and hard to secure. It’s best to arrive early in the morning to snag a parking spot in the actual car park. When I left after a full day of hiking, cars were lined far along the road leading up to the track.
I started with the Hooker Valley Track, both because I expected it to be busier and because the Sealy Tarns Track was undergoing maintenance and closed during certain hours of the day. These closures are listed on the DOC website and the information boards at the trailhead. Luckily, it opened up later in the day.
The Hooker Valley Track
The Hooker Valley Track is a beautiful walk that crosses several bridges over gushing rivers, leading all the way to Hooker Lake. There, you’re greeted with magnificent views of the turquoise water with Mount Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand) in the background. It’s truly a magical sight, well worth the journey.
The first part of the track is busy; there’s no way around it. You’ll pass several viewpoints early on, and slowly, bridge by bridge, the crowd begins to thin. Still, you’ll likely have plenty of company, which can be a bit tricky at the bridges, where people naturally stop for photos. Many of the bridges have a limit of around 10 people, so you may have to wait a little. But there are plenty of good spots to join in on the photo-taking, all the way to the lakeside.
The lakeside is a perfect place to relax, drink your coffee, or have lunch while taking in the views from the rocky shore. If you’re up for more, you can continue along the eastern banks of the lake, which offer unique perspectives and are often much quieter. However, the path here is less defined and requires careful navigation over rougher terrain. As I continued further, the trail became increasingly overgrown. This is where I decided to turn back, eager for some lunch—which I had in my van in the car park—before heading out on my second hike of the day, this time aiming for a higher viewpoint.
Sealy Tarns Track
By the time I set out for the Sealy Tarns Track in the afternoon, the sun was high in the sky, and even my layers of sunscreen, sun hoodie, and hat couldn’t fully save me from its wrath. So there I was, huffing and puffing my way up the mountain. This track climbs via a series of switchbacking stairs up the mountainside. Another girl and I kept passing each other, both agreeing there was no way we were adding the extra 400 meters to reach the hut after getting to the tarns.
The trail winds through a bush-covered slope, but shady spots are few and far between. While the Sealy Tarns themselves weren’t much to look at, it’s the viewpoint here that made all the sweat-drenched effort worth it.
After following the same trail back down, I returned to the same camping spot I’d stayed at the night before, along the banks of Lake Pukaki, with brilliant views across the water.
When Elsewhere Beckons 