After hiking the Five Lakes of Pizol, I continued my adventure through the Swiss Alps. This time, I set my sights on Kandersteg, more specifically, the spectacular Oeschinensee just outside the town. I spent the day hiking to panoramic viewpoints high above the turquoise lake, relaxing by its edge, and even braving a dip in its icy glacier-fed waters. It ended up being one of the most magical experiences of my time in Switzerland, thanks to perfect weather, beautiful hiking, and peaceful moments by the lake.
After a long drive from Walenstadt along the turquoise lakes of Switzerland, a stroll to see the waterfalls cascading down to the otherworldly lakes, and a winding drive up the mountain that I was wholly unprepared for, I finally arrived at Kandersteg. This adorable tourist town had been recommended to me by a friend, and she did not lead me astray. Located in the Kander Valley, this mountain town is the ideal place to stay for several walks in the area.
After checking in to my accomodation, I went for a little run/walk to get some movement in after a day of driving, leading me up to an old bridge along a cascading river.
The next day, I headed up to the Oeschinensee, which is located just 4 kilometres from the tourist town of Kandersteg and is understandably a popular destination. Tucked into the Bernese Oberland at an elevation of 1,578 meters, it’s one of the region’s larger alpine lakes, cradled in the stunning Oeschinen Valley. It’s a fantastic place for a hike or a day along the lakeside, and in winter, even the chance to skate across the frozen lake.
Fair warning: it does get busy, especially in the afternoons and on sunny days. The cobble beaches fill up quickly. If you want a moment of quiet by the water, aim to arrive early, particularly before the gondola starts running. That way, you might catch the lake at its calmest, with the morning light dancing across its surface.
You can reach the lake either by cable car or on foot. The gondola takes you partway up, with a short 10-minute walk from the top station to the lake. But if you’re up for a bit of a warm-up hike, the trail from Kandersteg takes 30 to 45 minutes and is relatively gentle.
The trail starts off beneath a canopy of trees before opening up into broader switchbacks that wind steadily uphill. Some side trails were closed due to safety concerns, but the main walking path remained open and easy to follow. It’s not the most scenic hike compared to what’s waiting at the top, but it’s still lovely in its own right, especially with morning mist curling through the valley and early light filtering through the trees.
Once the path levels out, the lake comes into view; initially understated, then completely breathtaking. Oeschinensee lay before me, beautifully turquoise and framed by towering mountains reflected on the lake’s surface
That early start was well worth it, as the first cable car had yet to begin. By the time I began my walk along the lake, it was still quiet and serene, the water smooth as glass. After a brief rest, I headed toward the start of the Panorama Trail, which leads along the hillside overlooking the lake.
The Panorama Trail starts just behind a café (where there was also an ice cream stand that was very popular that day), winding through a forested section before meeting the main route, where most people arrive from the gondola. From there, it’s a steady ascent through rocky terrain and woodland.
Let’s just say the name is well-earned. Throughout the hike, the lake is almost always in sight, glimmering in the sun.
While the hike can be done in either direction, I’d recommend starting with the climb and finishing with the lakeside walk. That way, you end on a relaxing note, with the option of a swim, a nap, or a picnic by the water.
I hesitated at first, worried it might be too steep or difficult, especially with signs warning about the incline. But aside from a few wobbly moments (hello, fear of heights), it was completely manageable. The toughest part is the initial climb, which is quite rocky. The trail hugs the mountain’s flank, so it’s occasionally steep on one side, but never unsafe.
After the ascent, the trail levels out and runs parallel to the lake, offering multiple stunning viewpoints. Some stretches might make height-sensitive hikers a bit cautious, but its a good path at all times.
Eventually, the descent begins. As you make your way down to the lakeside, wide open views replace the craggy cliffs. If you brought lunch, this is the perfect stretch to find a spot, sit back, and enjoy it with the lake sprawling out below.
Even if you don’t want to do the full loop, you can access this side more directly and still enjoy some of the same viewpoints (and drinking holes, if you’re in the mood).
By early afternoon, the shoreline was buzzing. Families, hikers, and sunbathers had taken over the cobble beaches. Some were taking a dip into the ice-cold water, others were feasting on bratwurst from the café.
I joined in the fun. Grapes in hand (a staple hiking snack for me), I kicked back for a while. Eventually, I changed into my swimsuit and joined the brave souls in the lake. Yes, it was freezing, but it was also gloriously refreshing, especially with the sun warming everything around me.
After my swim, I lay out on the beach with a good book, drying off in the sun and just… soaking it all in.
Clouds started rolling in later in the afternoon, so I made my way back down towards Kandersteg. The town itself has plenty of restaurants and is a great base for a few days. I was chasing sunshine on this trip, but there are lots of other hikes in the area if you have more time.
After a week of climbing mountains, I could feel my legs starting to protest. So the next destination promised fewer hikes and more of Switzerland’s other offerings in the form of cheese, chocolate, and culture as I headed west towards Gruyères and Lake Geneva.
When Elsewhere Beckons 