When Elsewhere Beckons

This was a hike I had been lusting over for about a year before finally taking the plunge. Ever since this beauty made its way onto my radar (after visiting two of its neighbouring Munros, Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhchraig, in the summer of 2023, I’d tried to get some first-hand information from any hiker who had been up Ben Lui.

Unfortunately, thus far, I have only encountered those who had made the approach from the River Lochy car park along the A85. I had read and heard about this route so many times already, I knew it way too well for a trail that wasn’t even an option for me and my non-existent car (spoiler alert: it involves an unavoidable river crossing at the start).

However, the most obvious option for me was going to be the long approach from Tyndrum, which has a direct connection to Glasgow. It’s a long out-and-back of approximately 23 kilometres (when including Beinn a’ Chleibh. Having found this hike when the days were already starting to drastically shorten, I bookmarked it for the following summer, to do on an excellent-weather day. Hence, the year-long enquiries before properly checking it out for myself.

Ben Lui is one of four Munros in this area. It is possible to traverse all four in a day, though this is likely to be a point-to-point route from River Lochy car park to Ardormie or vice versa.

In Tyndrum, there are a few shops to stock up on snacks and drinks, as well as other outdoor gear you may have forgotten. Following a section of the West Highland Way, the route soon continues along a long bridleway for about 6 kilometres, leading to the gold mine and the foot of Ben Lui. Leaving the bridlepath, you’ll continue on the grassy path up the north corrie.

The ascent is steep and unrelenting from here. The day I went, the sky was a clear blue, and it was blisteringly hot for Scotland There is a stream cascading alongside the path for this first part of the ascent, which is a good spot to fill up with extra water, as there will be no more of these opportunities as the path veers away from the stream and heads up the west ridge of the corrie. A steep switchbacking path leads you to this ridge, which you’ll continue up along with the imposing summit looming above you. This was the section I had been hesitant about and had been hunched over various maps, asking anyone who might have done it what the edge here was like. As someone with some degree of vertigo, I didn’t want to put myself in a spot where I may be shaking too much to be safe. However, it was fairly manageable, with only one part that felt a little iffy and that I took note of for the way down, but nothing that stopped me from continuing. I will say that the lack of wind that day (though making it much hotter) was likely also a factor in making the scarier bits feel very manageable. I say all this as someone who tends to be overly cautious. I hike alone and don’t want to end up in unnecessary predicaments. It’s a gorgeous way up the mountain and might be one of my favourite Scottish hikes so far. Definitely worthy of a repeat.

Upon reaching the ridge, you’ll join the path coming from the eastern car park. Soon, you’ll reach the summit, where you’re treated to stunning views of the surrounding mountains of Ben Lomond and the Trossachs National Park.

You can add another Munro, Beinn a’ Chleibh, to this hike, which is what I did by continuing south.

This starts with a long, switchbacky descent down 300 metres to the saddle and continues on a fairly easy ascent, though with a slightly rougher path at times, leading up to the summit of Beinn a’Chleibh.

After this, it was an absolutely brutal trek back up Ben Lui, a not too scary descent, and then an excruciatingly long way along the bridleway back to Tyndrym.

Back at the train station, I ate my sandwich and Twix bar, which for some reason, has been my go-to reward for hikes, while waiting for the last train back to Edinburgh.